IKEA Side Table Hack
This IKEA side table hack will show you how to turn a regular IKEA LACK side table into a sculptural beauty. I’ve been seeing so many sculptural side tables pop up at retailers like CB2 and Anthropologie so I decided to make one myself! Using an old LACK side table I created my own IKEA hack. The finished result is a high-end sculptural accent table that looks and feels expensive. I am thrilled with how it turned out and I hope you’re inspired to make your own!
Related Post: IKEA Hacks For Chic Furniture
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What You’ll Need:
Truth be told, this DIY sculptural side table can be made with just about any old side table you have laying around the house. You can even make the ENTIRE side table yourself if you make your own table top. For the sake of simplicity and time, I used an IKEA LACK side table. The IKEA Lack series is the ideal candidate for an IKEA Hack because it’s so inexpensive. These tables are less than $10 brand-new and people are literally giving them away for free if you look around your local classifieds.
- IKEA LACK Side Table
- Two Quikrete Building Forms 8″ x 4′
- Wood Glue
- Plaster of Paris
- Cheesecloth
- Putty Knife
- Fine Sand Paper
- Top Coat Spray
Step 1: Cut The New Table Legs
Using your Quikrete Building Form and a cutting devise, cut it down into four 18″H sections. I used a hand saw, but you can also use an Exacto knife. If you want your accent table to be higher or shorter, adjust the height of the legs as needed. When cutting the cardboard tube, make sure the cut is clean and even.
Step 2: Assemble The Legs To The IKEA Table Top
Using a quick drying wood glue, assemble the side table. Start by glueing 2 sets of legs together. Once dried, glue the two pairs together forming a cluster of 4. I used simple binder clips to keep the legs squeezed together while drying.
After the 4 legs have dried together place them in the centre of the IKEA Lack table top. Using a pencil, draw a mark on all 4 sides to make sure the legs are centred. Glue the legs to the underside of the table top. I glued inside and outside the cardboard tube to make sure the legs would be secure. Leave the table to dry for at least an hour.
Step 3: Plaster The Side Table
Now comes the fun part of this IKEA side table hack! It’s time to plaster the side table! This is also the part of the DIY project where I confess that I had NO IDEA this would work. I researched plaster of Paris extensively and everything I read advised against plastering cardboard. I also couldn’t find any examples of people plastering IKEA furniture – guess I’m the first one! I’m happy to report it totally worked and I would 100% use this method again!
The key to making the plaster of Paris stick to IKEA’s particle board table top and the cardboard tube legs, was to use cheesecloth. I know – sounds crazy right? But thinking back to my papier-mache days I figured adding a fabric or paper would give the plaster of paris strength and something to grip to. I was right! I also love the texture of the cheesecloth coming through the plaster.
Plaster of Paris dries FAST (roughly 6 minuets), and that means you have to work fast! Mix in small batches to make sure it doesn’t dry out. Before you start make sure you have multiple mixing containers handy. Cut a piece of cheesecloth big enough to cover one rounded section. Mix the plaster of Paris compound with water, start by following the ratios on the container. If you want a thicker or thinner consistency – adjust the amount of water. Once you start applying you will discover what works for you!
Using the putty knife plaster the cheesecloth onto your round section. I was going for a heavily textured look so I wasn’t too concerned with lumpy sections. If you prefer a smooth finish try to apply the plaster evenly. Repeat the process on all 4 legs. Using your finger and some left over semi-dried plaster of Paris, cover the gap between the concrete forms. Flip the table over and repeat the process on the table top.
Update: I had a few sections of plaster lift and separate from the cardboard and IKEA top a few days after the table was 100% dry. On these sections I added a 2nd coat of plaster and it seems to have fixed the issue!
Step 4: Sanding & Top Coat
After letting the plaster fully set for 24 hours it’s time for the finishing touches! Using a fine grade sand paper, lightly sand down any bumpy sections. Be careful not to sand it down too much or the cheesecloth will tear. I was trying to achieve a highly textured plaster look, so I only sanded sections that looked too jagged. Lastly apply several clear coats of spray paint to seal the plaster.
